DOMENICO OREFICE

 

LUMEN - AUTUMN/WINTER 26 - 27

With LUMEN, Domenico Orefice makes his official debut on the runway calendar of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, marking a pivotal moment in the brand’s growth journey. A foundational milestone that defines the brand’s language and charts its future trajectory within the independent fashion landscape.

 

LUMEN is light as guidance, signal, and revelation. The theme of the collection emerges as a metaphor for the path undertaken by the brand: a journey shaped by exploration, uncertainty, and transformation, mirroring a world in constant flux and carrying with it a strong cultural relevance.

Even when the path appears uncertain or demanding, embracing the journey remains essential to transformation and growth.

The collection unfolds as a reflection on the brand’s journey to date, articulating its DNA with greater precision and maturity a distilled expression of its founding ideas, now refined through time and experience. Italian savoir-faire supports a sophisticated hybrid of sportswear and tailoring, in which once-exaggerated volumes evolve into more precise and intentional silhouettes.

The use of leather remains a defining element, reinterpreted through upcycled materials and innovative techniques developed in collaboration with the Italian leather ready-to-wear house Demiurgo. Alongside this partnership, the brand deepens its craftsmanship by introducing shearling, adding new depth and texture to its material vocabulary.

The season also marks the debut of fully commercial leather bags and footwear, all made in Italy, together with the introduction of shirting as a new category.

The brand’s iconic palette beige and black is enriched with accents of green and light blue, while a collaboration with design studio Douze Degrés expands the brand’s universe into the realm of object design.

On the runway, Domenico previews a collaboration with J’Adore Napoli, the nss edicola project created to explore a new idea of Neapolitan identity, through a leather T-shirt.

During the show, Domenico Orefice invites guests to witness the story of a mysterious figure emerging from darkness, carrying a guiding light that rises like a lighthouse for lost sailors, tracing the route for those who will follow.

This narrative is distilled in the name LUMEN.

Fashion, art, and design enter into dialogue through the evolving sequence of silhouettes on the runway, live musical performances, and sculptural elements, immersing the audience in a spatial narrative in constant transformation.

The set is created in collaboration with Studio Douze Degrès, the Paris-based atelier known for its interdisciplinary practices and iconic Flare lamps. Reinterpreted through an Arte Povera lens, these lamps are recomposed into sculptural totems built from upcycled materials and reclaimed everyday objects transforming ordinary elements into symbols rich with meaning.

Arranged along the runway, the totems become a tangible allegory of the stages encountered along one’s path.

The show’s sound design is curated by NIIO, Italian DJ and producer, who integrates experimental recordings captured by the group Moonlit using contact microphones. These sonic textures form the foundation of the composition, enhancing the emotional and spatial presence of the show.

Domenico Orefice wishes to thank Polimoda for its support, education, and constant creative stimulus, which have contributed significantly to his professional journey, as well as for its invaluable support of the project, making the January 2025 show possible.


Creative Direction: DomenicoStyling & Art Direction: @ry.gafyStyling team: @marinaaacs @matteo.gixCasting: @simobartcasting @eri.ctrlz @purplevirSet Design: @studio.douzedegres @giorgiapanuzzo @Lucas_longo__SD Assistant: @gaiaodatiLamps and Object Design: @studio.douzedegresSound Design: @niio_ofcRunway Photography: @giuliopierini_photographyRunway Videography: @kevinconiquetShow Calling: @luciemabitDesign Team: @sebastiano.ratti @disconnecteeed @mllerosa_Jewelry Design and Management: @akadxxy @duccio_schiumariniShoe Design: @nicolo_russoPress Office: @s2bpresskey mua Giulio Panciera@mksmilanoKey hair @francescoficarahairstylistSpecial thanks to @polimodafirenze @fondazionesozzani @gruppocinque @saramaino@carlasozzani