Simon Cracker

An Annoying Summer Fairy Tale

“I can’t deal with summer, and this story gives a nod to those who feel the same way.”

It’s a fairy tale in which the protagonists are the people in the crew, who play the roles of princes, fairies and Cracker queens. The looks were designed with them in mind and inspired by them: every member of the crew is different, both physically and creatively. That’s why, for the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, the process began with the very people who would be wearing the clothes. I tailored them to fit them, just as one used to do with paper dolls – which have now disappeared from circulation.

A game of GIRA LA MODA with the Cracker Crew: people come first, then the clothes.

When I think about a collection, a whole lot of things spring to mind. I follow a certain message, but I do so surrounded by an aesthetic chaos made up of children’s fairy tales, picture books, memories I take refuge in when everything goes wrong, my ever-present cat, and my collections of objects – which prevent me from growing up completely and taking myself too seriously.

As a child, I loved the scene in Cinderella where the mice were actually upcycling. I used to imitate them using fabrics I found around the house. Who would ever have thought that that spontaneous game would become my future?

I don’t want to take myself too seriously. Almost everything bores me – ADHD aside – and in this job I’ve chosen, and for which I’m grateful to be able to do, I want to carry on playing and having fun, without sacrificing a single detail of the story that has brought me to this show.

Today’s economy alarms and worries even many of my designer friends, who are ‘eternally emerging’. I’d like to shout out with them that I’m not afraid, because fear is the first thing to sacrifice creativity.  For me, creativity is the reason I wake up every day and the fuel that enables me to face a world that’s turned upside down. 

This collection brings together a selection of designs from Simon Cracker’s history dating back to 2010, but they have been chosen on the basis of the feedback received over the years. The details that caused the most irritation have been repeated and emphasised; those considered mistakes or flaws to be corrected have been deliberately revived. Nowadays, even a beautiful collection is no guarantee of sales. We might as well be true to ourselves through and through.

I imagined putting forty wedding dresses into a giant blender, disrupting silhouettes and volumes and placing them where they wouldn’t normally belong. The result is mushroom-shaped capes with bows, millions of ruffles, tulle and crinolines that take on the texture of mould on summer citrus fruits.

Denim is paired with fine fabrics such as satin and silk: they are dyed and boiled until they become almost sculptural. The outerwear is light and fresh, made from cotton sourced from white bedsheets. These, too, are boiled and dyed in shades of sage, blue and magenta.

With the scorching heat melting ice creams and ice lollies, everything drips onto your clothes. In this case, Simon Cracker’s ice lollies have melted onto the ‘Saccoccia’ handbag, platform sandals and iconic styles such as Dr Martens’ 1461, as well as onto the frames of sunglasses.

Let’s remember that, as well as saving the world, we need to have a bit of fun every now and then.

That’s the message I’d like to send to the younger generations, to those studying and dreaming of working in this sector, and to those who think there’s no place for them in this world. You’re growing up and becoming adults amidst responsibilities and problems caused by who knows who, long before your time.

Go and find that place. Or create it for yourselves. 

Shout out. And always speak your mind.

Thank you 

To Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana for its ever-increasing support and the trust it has shown over time, which gives me the opportunity to grow: Carlo Capasa, Alessandra Panico and Elena Tedesco.

To the Sozzani Foundation: Carla, Sara, Silvia, Simone and Kay.

A second home that gives me the chance to express what I think without having to hold anything back. 

To LineaPelle, which supports us in our search for off-cut materials and leathers to transform: thank you to Fulvia, Alessandra, Enzo and everyone who puts up with me wandering round the offices moving bits of leather about and asking questions about everything.

To Giulia Martinelli for joining the world of Cracker, for believing in what I do and what I’m fighting for, and for sharing my way of putting things: “forever punkindness”

To Antonio Mancinelli, a friend as mad as I am, who has been listening to me and watching what I do for some time now, and who this time, on a whim, decided to take part in the show by walking the catwalk wearing one of the looks. Because there are no real labels, press, buyers or assistants here. Those who walk the Cracker catwalk are the ones who believe in this project. 

To Dr Martens and Pilot Room for the (truly) sustainable collaboration that has been going strong for years thanks to our synergy. And to Elisa, in particular, who stays until midnight helping me select the shoe styles. 

To WNLAB, who have supported us for some time and fuel the ever-growing Cracker Crew.  

To Beautick, whose support has allowed us to continue this season’s fairy tale about the Crew, their unique traits and personalities, with the utmost sensitivity.

To Marina and Christina at Garage Showroom, Pier and the team at Fayer Communication, who always stand by me, believing in this unconventional approach to fashion.

To the shops that are weathering this truly difficult time alongside me.

To the team at RE-use Cesena for their ongoing support and for sourcing recycled materials for the DENIM section of the collection.